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  1. #51
    Junior Member summerski's Avatar
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    Thanks Olaf. I believe I have your updated Prib and I recall yesterday a few tyres were registering 38+ So this means those tyres are about 4% less effective? As for green and yellow, sadly I'm colored blind and cant really tell the difference. Can the tyres change from yellow back to green if you stay on the track a few laps?

    I'll practice more this weekend.

    Thanks for your help mate.

    Will

    values on the right:
    Tyre wear, or better said, grip loss
    0= no grip loss = normal GPL grip
    If the wear value increases from 0 to 10, it means the grip of the tyre will be reduce by about 1%.
    The colour of the wear value draws the dirt effect.
    green = tyres clean
    yellow = tyres dirty

  2. #52
    This event was as always particularly good, as in any of the versions of DG-patch . For sure harder than 8.0. The good lap-time spot is even more reduced. Tonight, two short qual stint was necessary compared to a longer one-stint.

    My first race where was well done at this hard technical Kyalami, was fun (in another car too, just for chassis test, was not bad to race, only a bit slower at the long straights). After qualifying I decided not to make the pit stop. I did two spins as I remember, where was my own driving errors, not due to the patch.

    Grats Robert for win the race , thanks all for race, see you at the opening S3-race here at Kyalami

  3. #53
    Senior Member Olaf Lehmann's Avatar
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    @Will:
    Can the tyres change from yellow back to green if you stay on the track a few laps?
    No, it's in dependency of wheel turnings.

    As for green and yellow, sadly I'm colored blind and cant really tell the difference.
    Oh, that's a disadvantage... So let me explain how many time (better which distance) the tires are dirty. When you have driven about three seconds or more at dirt, grass, etc. after about 2...3km the grip is completly like before, but It gets uniformly better. It means: After the "trip in the green or desert" the grip is reduced to about 90%. So after one km you have about 94...95% i.e.

    I believe I have your updated Prib and I recall yesterday a few tyres were registering 38+ So this means those tyres are about 4% less effective?
    Yes, you understand the readme correct.
    But like often in realitly live it's a bit more complex. The higher the values, the greater the deviation from the explanation in the readme. A value of 100 is in reality not 90% grip, but about 91%. A value of 1000 would not mean no grip at all, but 50%. But normally the user does not want to sprain his head too much. The system explained in the readme should be a good guideline - even if it is not completely accurate...

  4. #54
    Senior Member
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    To be fair, I didn't see much different wear as to last season. Last year I think I won the Kyalami race in the Cooper without a stop.

    I am sure I can pull of a no-stopper again, even in the BRM, it might be slightly faster even. I had about 30 wear all around but for RF tire, it had 40 (mostly due to locking up inside tire at times), with a 1 stop strategy.

    Last year no-stoppers worked when I had around 80-90 wear max all around. In general I do seem to have less wear than most because I have a very smooth driving style.

    All in all I don't feel much difference compared to DGP 8.0, so far

  5. #55
    Junior Member summerski's Avatar
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    Thanks Olaf. This helps me a lot. As does Roberts post. I'll change my style and do a test race and see what values I come up with.

    Much appreciated.

    Will

  6. #56
    Senior Member rouenfrance's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Olaf Lehmann View Post
    What we had noticed in EOLC times was that you get into trouble and miss some corner entries because the engine brake is missing.
    The time loss on the straight, on the other hand, is usually less than it feels in reality.
    Yes, my troubles were braking for t1 without 3rd, but once I learned to wait a little for the revs to drop before taking 2nd, I was more comfortable

    Quote Originally Posted by summerski View Post
    Can the tyres change from yellow back to green if you stay on the track a few laps?
    Not being able to see the colour change is unfortunate, as the colour does change back from yellow to green if you stay on track. Usually after a lap they're back.

  7. #57
    Junior Member
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    mexico
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    sorry guys for the question, but somebody can to help me how is work the dg patch 8.1
    I need to raise my arm for the patch start to work? or I can used the pits stop patch for refuel only ? it's possible used th dg patch 8.1 and pits stop patch at the same time?
    I can't found some "tutorial" for the used of the dg patch :
    thanks for the help

  8. #58
    Senior Member
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    I see youre on the list Enrique so I suppose youve gotten it to work? Repair and tirechange are the same as 8.0 , just a little more wear with 8.1

    You need a refuel patch alongside the dg patch , either Lee`s patch or Olafs refuel patch. Works just fine with the dg patch.
    Last edited by Dag_J; 14-01-21 at 07:27.

  9. #59
    Senior Member Olaf Lehmann's Avatar
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    I need to raise my arm for the patch start to work?
    No! If you choice dirtgearpatch in GEM+ it works all the time. Raising arm you need to refill - it has nothing to do with dgp.
    I can't found some "tutorial" for the used of the dg patch
    Here is the official link to the patch:
    http://srmz.net/index.php?showtopic=8808
    In first post you find a long english readme. If you have downloaded the patchfolder you'll find a french and a german readme too (french and english readmes are written by Roo - thanks again, Roo).
    But in readme you'll find nothing about refuel patch, because refuel isn't included in dg patch. But as Dag said you can choice Lees pitstop patch or my refuel patch additional to dgp. My refuel patch (called refuel_var) you'll find in patchfolder too.

    BR Olaf
    Last edited by Olaf Lehmann; 14-01-21 at 13:02.

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